Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
